PSA: Skinny Jeans Were Never “Out”
At a private event last week, where I spoke about style and dopamine dressing during winter, one particular item of clothing was a main focus of conversation and questions: the skinny jean.
What we all know when it comes to trends and aesthetics is that everything (well, not literally everything, thank heavens) is cyclical, so inevitably this silhouette of denim that has made its way “out” is now back “in.” But let’s be real — the skinny jean was never truly gone from the women's wear lexicon and closet. And I’m glad about that. You should be, too.
Some cuts, fits, and washes in denim are not all certainly “in” at all times for those who want to feel “of the time.” Every year, we are all marketed to based on what brands, designers, critics, celebrities, and media trend drivers say is aesthetically acceptable as the current options. In the past few seasons, I would guess a good 40% of this audience has acquired or at least tried on each of these: a wide-leg, “mom” jeans, girlfriends, and a kick crop (particularly a fan of this last one for ladies under 5’5”).
There is no criticism of wanting to purchase the latest and greatest pair of jeans that everyone is talking about, because it's a natural inclination to want what’s new and cool, according to your in-group preference. The human psyche seeks inclusion and validation from the group it wants to belong to. Fashion has been capitalizing on this since the dawn of clothing. We want what others whom we admire have so that we, too, can feel what they feel when we wear it and feel like we belong in association. Just one important variable.
Hence, a big reason why the skinny jean is back in the mainstream dialogue.
This is good for women’s closets because skinny jeans are the most universally well-fitting denim style. So, if you withheld wearing, but held onto your skinny jeans and they don’t have holes or tears and aren’t stretched in the upper inseam, and they fit you, then please start wearing them and enjoying them, yet again.
Some style notes on skinny jeans, as you either break them out again or are acquiring new ones:
Shop your closet — Already alluded to this in the above paragraph about making sure they’re not showing signs that they’re 15 years old. And you might want some to be ripped in the knee or have a raw hem, fine if that’s your jam, but read the room before wearing those just anywhere. And cut off all the dangling threads at your hem; everything needs a haircut from time to time.
Consider updated washes — A black wash, white or ivory, and medium to super dark blue denim in a skinny jean is polished. Clients have been asking a lot lately for jeans that help them elevate and finish off their day-to-dinner looks. These classic washes will help you achieve that.
Know which ankle tightness belongs where — A lot of the new skinny jean styles are not as lacquered to your ankles like many were in the mid-2000s. An inch or even half an inch of wiggle room/opening at the bottom hem around the ankle is a bit more modern. Like the ones I have on in my photo above. The only time to wear the super-tight ankle skinnies is when you are tucking the jeans into tall boots or higher-cut booties, but I do not want to see your lower calf or ankle skin exposed when you put on booties with this denim style.
Sneakers and skinnies — The difference in lower-calf/ankle skin exposure between skinny jeans and sneakers is why I recommend jeans with a small opening at the bottom for this pairing. It’s a balance thing. It’s also an opportunity when it’s cold outside or if you want to try out the high sock worn under the skinny jean with sneakers look, so that there is a little exposure of the sock. If you’re going to do this, please make sure your socks actually match the outfit, don’t have holes, and aren’t pilling or showing other signs of age like fading or mismatched coloring.
I had a follow-up question on this note, re: socks, skinnies, and sneakers, after I posted about this briefly on Instagram. As shown in the photo above, I opted for a black sock with my black jeans because my leopard sneakers are a statement. I would not have chosen stark white, but an ivory shade could also have worked well. Some people want to wear bright socks with neutral tops, jeans, and shoes — go for it. One of my male clients sent me a photo of his bright red socks with a black/grey look the other day, and it was a killer choice for where he was wearing his look.
Length — If you’re going to either start wearing again or purchase new skinny jeans… please, please, please make sure that they are not scrunched at your ankles. They can be a longer fit, but not past the bottom of your ankle bone, because it can make you appear shorter than you already are. If you go too short, that’s also not a great look, and it also shrinks your body down toward the ground, which, even if you’re taller and want to not seem as tall, still isn’t a good look. Hem your jeans.
We can discuss skinny crops when the temperature exceeds 75°F. See my point above on tucking into booties to prevent skin exposure. AND, if you have skinnies that have some spacing at the ankle material, you can even put them over your booties, only if the shoes are very fitted at the ankle. You want about 1” of under/overlap, either tucking in or out.
Sizing — Skinny jeans should generally fit true to your standard size (once you have that in a denim brand), and you want them to be fairly fitted close to the body. Not the point of circulation cutting off at the waist, but they’re intended to be tighter. If your current jeans have little ripples right beneath the “crotch” area (there’s really no other descriptive word), when you’re not wearing them that means that elasticity in that section has entirely broken down — this cannot be repaired and it’s time to get rid of these jeans, because over time that ripple will show up like bubbles when you’re wearing them and they draw a lot of attention. Not ideal.
The only time you don’t want to be in a super fitted skinny jean style is when you’re wearing them in a white or ivory wash — I often encourage clients to size up only in this lighter color since it “reveals” more on everyone.
Some new options — I pulled together an assortment of 10 styles for you, if you’re in the market, in darker blue and black washes, with a few lighter styles to even wear now (yes, you can wear winter white). The last two pairs in the edit are super fitted at the ankle, should you want to tuck them into boots.